Even after being in Berlin for nearly two months, you will come to realise that it is rather difficult to put your finger down on the capital’s fashion. Second-hand is certainly some sort of aesthetic here: a mash-up of vintage and contemporary H+M seems quite the norm, as is a proclivity for pantaloons and neo-eighties disco wear. And there are the yuppies who look like they’ve walked right out of Hugo Boss or Jill Sander.
Travelling out of Berlin this weekend meant, unfortunately, that I missed the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week here. A set of shots (with a rather scathing commentary attached) on Deutsch MSN meant that I got some updates, nevertheless. I’m no insider on contemporary German fashion but it seems that the young designer Patrick Mohr selected the theme “Is the Rhomboid Ragpicker Homeless” for his S/S 2010 Show. Yes – read again. That takes a lot of unravelling in itself.
The clothes are themselves quite breathtaking and imaginative. A rag-and-bone man-type ensemble with structured elements, consisting of raw, coarse layers; part costume part social commentary?
And what about the make-up? Some media sources point out the unwitting resemblance to creatures from bad horror flicks. (I’ve lost my link to the German website since – apologies.) I think also of rock bands – like Kiss gone primitive/minimalist – or traditional theatre, with its ritual mourners. This white pastey face-paint (?) is caked on liberally (save the triangle in the centre), bringing the death to the runway.
(Also, the show was held in Bebelplatz, where the burning of books during the Third Reich had taken place. An allusion here, perhaps?)
Is this then an open and bold rejection of beauty, of commercialisation? Indeed, of Fashion that has gone stale on the soulless living?
Photos © by Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. The images here were taken from http://coutequecoute.blogspot.com; which has a pretty sweet gallery of this collection.