Ups and Downs

Parsons Boy mentioned Hermes’s proposed launch of Shang Xia 上下, a new label that carries Chinese-inspired ready-to-wear and items. Shang Xia will leverage on the Hermes tradition (or brand, really), but employ Chinese materials and artisanal techniques. Prices will be lower than that of Hermes’s.

Pudong, Shanghai (Photo Credits: NYTimes.com)

I really wonder if it’ll work — selling Chinese-inspired things to a Chinese market, especially at a time when the Chinese seem to want material items that seem to reflect French / Italian luxury. A couple of years ago, I read a couple of books on the Japanese fervour for continental luxury in the ’80s and ’90s. The authors noted that the Japanese would buy pearls from just about anywhere foreign — except Mikimoto, a Japanese label. Now, we’re selling Chinese-made, Chinese-inspired things to the Chinese at French prices?

In its defence, though, Hermes’s new venture might just end up recreating (or overshadowing) the Shanghai Tang success story. I say this with the assumption that SX will target the same market segment that Shanghai Tang does (a generous assumption) — or create demand from a separate segment. Have a feeling it might do better in Paris than it will in China.

Even if it is a huge success, will Hermes have to face bigger intellectual property issues? Also, is this an equity joint-venture? A contractual joint-venture? A wholly-owned foreign enterprise? It’d be interesting to see how its legal department answers the various legal challenges this new venture poses!

2030

160g magazine’s February 2010 issue has its photographers exploring futuristic fashion in various ways, of which Billy Kidd’s is the most inspiring. I suppose it’s a very easy way of interpreting the theme, but it’s really pretty nevertheless. What a nice way to start a Friday.

While Gold Prices are still High

First a dollar, then a gold ring — the Singapore Mint announced yesterday that it has moved into jewellery-making. It prides itself on its commitment to workmanship — I do hope it has built more into the Singapore Mint brand! Workmanship isn’t exactly the sexiest element of a brand.

Will this brand extension work? Or will our stubborn perceptions lead us to believe that the pendants, bracelets and rings smell of $1 coins?

Blue People, the Aftermath

I’m currently rather into the ’60s, for some reason, but it seems that the best designers have gone way, way back (or forward) in time. IHT reports that designers have been paying homage to ‘Avatar’, taking inspiration from some blue people and a giant tree.

I sound rather dismissive about all this, mainly because I had a headache after watching the movie. Still, I really do like what Valentino has made out of it.

(Photo credits: Style.com)

Martin Niklas Wieser

Pekface often tells me about how fun Berlin is, and we’ve all read about it becoming the new fashion and cultural hub — little wonder she’s headed there for a bit now. Or are you in New York again, my dear?

Check out Martin Niklas Wieser’s work! It’s where young art and fashion collide, relate but never quite merge. Nevertheless, the little collections seem strung together by strong concepts, albeit rather dark ones sometimes. Click and scroll through everything on the site! I had so much fun with it.

Who Moved My Cheese?

Hello friends! I’m back from the islands — I spent most of it walking around in a suit and praying that I wouldn’t sweat too much into it. Anyhow, it’s good to be back on this air-conditioned island!

Have been particularly enthralled by these Viktor & Rolf dresses, which I must have missed a couple of months back. I would so love one of these!

Island Hopping

I’m flying to Indonesia tomorrow; will be back in a bit. Take care, my friends.

… here’s something that may affect you, or not: Ksubi in administration. I do hope it pulls through!

At the heart of fashion

A Europe-based luxury brand with several product lines (hmm) has signed an agreement with New York city based Applied DNA Sciences to authenticate its products (CNN). The luxury brand remains unnamed, but we’ll probably find out soon enough.

I think it’s pretty amazing that luxury companies have to go to such lengths to prove authenticity and protect their brand. The counterfeit industry seems such an economic imperative for certain new economies that domestic and international laws have failed to plug the influx of copycat bags, shoes, clothes, et cetera. My guess is that people are tired of hearing about new lawsuits (LVMH v eBay, v Google, v City Chain) every month: we’re thinking of ways to promote the “More for More” value proposition (in marketing-speak) in the market instead of waiting for IP law to solve our problems. Where does that leave us, though?

Cartier, Van Cleef, Prada?

Last night, Crude Oil Broker quizzed me on why companies should theoretically be funded by debt rather than equity (FNCE101: cost of debt < cost of equity, taxes). Perhaps this is why Prada seems to have taken on so much debt in recent years — and its impending IPO is, well, still impending.

So, the NY Post released the gossip yesterday: Swiss luxury goods company Richemont, which owns Cartier, Piaget, and IWC, seems to be eyeing debt-ridden Prada.

Prada, on the other hand, has duly denied this report.

Frankly, I’d be a little sad to see one of the few remaining family-owned luxury labels being sold off to a conglomerate. Everyone knows about my ridiculous obsession with huge conglomerates, but this really would be rather sad. We’ll have to watch how this plays out in the next few months.

More Chinese

I spent most of the New Year holiday cooped up at home, working my way through all 32 episodes of this Hong Kong drama serial called Beyond the Realm of Conscience. I started watching on JS’s recommendation, and he didn’t quite warn me that it’d be so addictive. It’s got a much better Chinese title and some of the best actresses in Hong Kong. I have to say, though, nothing quite beats its amazing makeup, costumes and accessories. Oh, the details! Someone should really put these things on a runway.

I share these photos at the risk of looking like a fangirl.

Parsons Boy, Peksies, you really have to watch this! I think I’ll watch it again.